Who Are You Eating?

Article by: Liana Tang / Graphic by: Jillian Hartshorne

Diversity is necessary for human survival. Culture, heritage, and society are all products of this natural, beautiful variance. Yet, there is one thing that bridges these gaps, connects people from all demographics, and serves as an innate source of understanding- food. America is the “melting pot” of multi-traditional cuisine- a shining example of cultural connection and appreciation facilitated through food. But under the covers of Tex-Mex and Indo-China Fusion, American food companies harbor deep secrets that exploit the very people whose traditions and cultures they capitalize on.

The capitalization began in 1921, with the creation of White Castle, America’s first fast food chain. Unlike the surrounding restaurants, the “Mom and Pop” diner only sold three items- hamburgers, soda, and fries. At first, the mass appeal and the quick-and-easy menu, fresh ingredients, and convenience brought fame to the small joint. This fame expanded, and eventually, other White Castle restaurants were opened. Eventually, other companies began to follow suit, quickly inventing and developing fast, affordable food to be sold to the public. 

Eventually, the demands became too high for these fast food chains to continue to use organic, natural ingredients.  Instead, they turned to large corporations to provide food and resources. The US Department of Agriculture admits that the “Big Four” in the meatpacking industry control around 85% of the entire market today, in comparison to the 40-50% they controlled when fast food was first created. This stark contrast exposes the oligopoly that the meat industry has become. In turn, these meat moguls are committed to finding cheap, easy ways to produce enough food to meet the demands of the fast food industry, and the general population - even if it results in the exploitation of human beings.  

One of the results of the cheapness of these corporate magnates is an effect on the frugality of fast food consumers. With cheaper ingredients come cheaper prices. For many, the dollar menu at fast food restaurants serves as a Holy Grail not only for its inexpensiveness, but also for its ability to offer a satisfying meal. In the documentary Food Inc, Director Robert Kenner interviews the Gonzalez family- a typical representation of the American minority forced to make food choices on a strict budget. In the interview, Maria Gonzales, the mother, reveals, “We can find candy that’s cheaper. Chips that are cheaper. The sodas are really cheap. Sometimes you look at vegetables and you think, well we can get two hamburgers here for the same amount of price” (Kenner 40.42). However, the Dollar Menu is a double-edged sword that bites many, including the Gonzalezes. With the food items come unnecessary calories, fats, and sugars, all of which result in long-term medical issues such as diabetes or heart congestion. In fact, the film revealed that both Maria’s husband and younger daughters are suffering from diabetes. With this illness comes expensive treatments that further pin down the family financially- creating a vicious cycle that relies on the economic restrictions of the average American. 

This very cycle is all too prevalent in America. For those of us in Tucson, it's happening next door. The Tohono O'odham Native American Nation neighbors the city and is constantly trampled by government incompetence in the Food Industry. The Nation is located in a “food desert,” meaning residents must drive extreme distances to supermarkets. However, fast food restaurants in this area present themselves as easily accessible meals. This reliance on fast food results in a severe food-related health crisis in the area. In fact, the adult population of the Nation has a shocking diabetic rate of 65% in men and 72% in women- a clear result of the Nation’s lack of accessibility to fresh foods. The issue is further exacerbated in children. According to the Equity Census, 76% of Tohono O’odham Middle-Schoolers are considered overweight or obese. Of course, the systemic barriers put in place for this community, such as a lack of transportation, play their role in the health crisis. Ultimately, however, the main issue lies in the fact that this community has limited resources and money, preventing them from buying healthy, nutritious foods. 

Not only do food tycoons capitalize on the budgets and needs of the marginalized, but they also exploit their need for jobs. This abuse of power is the most commonly seen in the meatpacking industry. Companies such as Tyson, Smithfield Farms, JBS, and Clemens control over 90% of the industry, leaving little to no room for local farmers and suppliers. Within these companies, further exploitation occurs. According to the Economic Policy Institute, over half of the meatpacking employees in the industry are immigrants. Out of those immigrants, a whopping 67% are undocumented. Upon arriving in America, meatpackers are faced with an unbearable choice. They must either choose to spend hours at a time away from their families- slaughtering countless animals a day, all while operating dangerous, heavy, and deadly machinery- or live in poverty. 

One may argue that this exploitation is acceptable because they are under the assumption that these immigrants happened to “apply” for the position. In reality, the leaders of the meatpacking industry publish advertisements in Mexico’s biggest newspapers, urging men and women to cross the border illegally and work in the industry. While incredibly exploitative, these advertisements are completely legal and offer a high-reward, low-risk method of employment for these food moguls. 

By tapping into the immigrant workforce, these large companies widen their influence over both the economic and political spheres of the food industry. As of January 19, 2011, Tyson admitted themselves into the U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement’s IMAGE program, which places a heavy emphasis on maintaining an authorized, legal workforce. Yet, the company suffered a scandal in 2024 in which they were accused of prioritizing immigrant workers, especially for “unpleasant” jobs. Furthermore, some claim that large meatpacking companies like Tyson will turn in their own employees to ICE, creating a vicious cycle of reliance for Tyson, its workers, and the Government. While Tyson denies these allegations, the notion that large food companies are not only using their immigrant workers for economic gain but also for political gain is a disturbing thought. 

It may seem like nothing can be done to overthrow the influence that these meatpacking industries have on politics, economics, and society. Admittedly, there is not much to do except clear one’s own conscience and purchase the food they know was produced ethically. While money is a constraint towards this goal, the internet provides a helpful source of alternative, nutritious recipes that can be created cheaply. Online websites such as BudgetBytes lend themselves to cheap and healthy meals. Of course, processed foods cannot be avoided entirely. But even the knowledge of the exploitation and abuse that goes into the creation of these foods is enough to start taking small steps away from it. Next time you think about going to McDonald's, try using that $10 you were going to spend on a Big Mac and buy a new piece of cultural food from your local farmer’s market. 

While unavoidable, next time you eat a hamburger, just think- Who are you eating? 

Works Cited

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Moskin, Julia. “Crispy, Salty, American History of Fast Food.” *Smithsonian Magazine*, 23 Jan. 2019, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/crispy-salty-american-history-fast-food-180972459/.

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*Tohono O’odham Nation Profile*. *Equity Caucus*, 2018, https://equitycaucus.org/sites/default/files/Tohono%20Oodham%20Nation%20Profile.pdf.

“When Did Factory Farming Start—and Why Does It Still Exist?” *New Roots Institute*, n.d., https://www.newrootsinstitute.org/articles/when-did-factory-farming-start-and-why-does-it-still-exist#:~:text=Why%20Was%20Factory%20Farming%20Introduced,population%20in%20the%20subject%20countries.